НА САЙТЕ ВЕДУТСЯ РАБОТЫ. ВОЗМОЖНЫ СБОИ, НЕКОРРЕКТНОЕ ОТОБРАЖЕНИЕ. ОКОНЧАНИЕ 20.08.2019

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the Article is prepared: Dmitry Platinovym, for which he thanks! This is a basic article, it is necessary to understand common terms, this is one of the starting points, which will not allow to leak to the Internet questions like, \"Want to blow the HONDA CIVIC!!! What to do?\". Just say, I will not write about specific brands of components for realization of your turbo project. A selection of different items for your personal, turbo project is extensive and the choice will be for You is China professional equipment that was in use or just homemade. I just try to write about each of the nodes, which addressed when building such a project, something will need to be added, or subject to revision and adjustment (tuning the fuel maps for example). Ill try to clarify some concepts for turbirovanie engine Honda Civic D-series, for example, D14-D15:

the
    the
  • Will \"blow\" into the drain without capitali with a small pressure (0.7 bar)
  • the
  • \"Blow\" to the Honda engine with forged connecting rod and piston group and subsequent capitally (0.5 bar and above)

Pressure data was specified is not casual, everything is made with a view to preserving the life of the engine, for a car almost every day.\nI consider it necessary to stipulate the difference between these concepts, as it will be a General description of the creation turbokit.\nAnd the only difference is the cylinder-connecting rod-piston group and elements relating to it. For the second concept necessary to install forged rods and special pistons turbo (not necessarily forged), I will note that the best block for forged d16 SPL will, but due to the fact that the unit had to most D15 about it and we will talk. The most popular is a set consisting of connecting rods Eagle. Why the need to change the connecting rods? Stock rods are too \"weak\" and thin. Forged have a thick body, and the number of cases in the slice have an H shaped cross-section which is slightly reduces weight and adds strength. (see Fig. 1) \n

Fig. 1. Forged connecting rods, turboforce, liners and rings

Fig. 1. Forged connecting rods, turboforce, liners and rings

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Reinforced liners is desirable, but not necessary, as with proper lubrication, and the choice of oil (which does not burn at high speeds), OEM-vskie work very well. Optionally, you can add the so-called BlockGuard, serves as a \"spacer\" between the outer walls of the cylinder, the speaker amplifier.(see Fig. 2).

Fig. 2. BlockGuard

Fig. 2. BlockGuard

I recommend to use a reinforced stud type ARP to connect the cylinder block with the cylinder head.\nAfter capitali can not but in any case, immediately operate the engine in turbo mode. Be sure to pass run! It is possible to go with the established turbocam, but not positive pressure. The correct running is a disgrace riding at 3000 rpm for 1500-3000km, boring botonnee business. Of course, for example professional car racing is not run in 3000km, but this is a special car designed just for 1 race. Worthy of the first place. And then the bulkhead.\nThis difference of concepts over, see what I can do ports the cylinder head, replace the camshaft with a more \"evil\", etc., etc podgotovit engine maximum under the best engine performance.\nNext, try to know the structure turbokit (see Fig. 3)\n\n

Fig. 3. Set turbokit engine

Fig. 3. Turbokit mounted on the engine

1. Turbine supercharger, I personally think this is the most important element, the correct selection of turbine will bring You the expected result. Here to discuss in detail all nuances I wont, be guided by the table presented below, according to the calculated horsepower and model of the turbine.


As a hint, you can use a used turbine from Saab, Subaru and other diesel factory turbo machines. Do not use turbines from diesel cars also applies to intercoolers! These turbines have a built in Westgate, which will facilitate our lives. If the turbine has the ability of cooling, it is not necessary to connect to the native water cooling system of the car, just leave the holes\nopen.


2. Exhaust manifold to turbine. Can weld yourself, you can buy ready-made, but there is a little trick. It is to find manifold from the engine d15z1, it has a flat surface on the output relative to the road, make him an adapter and you will have a budget turbo manifold.


3. Intercooler with piping that has the mounting and connector for bloff. Usually these kits are sold by blowoff. Be creative here as you like, collect this kit in different combinations. A small note, the bypass valve (aka blowoff) is needed in order to when you let go of the gas, the throttle closes and the turbine inertia continues to compress the air between the turbine and the throttle plate creates a high pressure, which abruptly stops the impeller of the turbine, thereby increasing the wear thereof, and the lag thereof. The bypass valve opens as soon as the intake manifold there is a vacuum and thereby pulls all the air out, making the most pleasant and pleasing to the ear pssst....


4. Macapodi hoses and oil drain in the pan. Oil supply taken from the oil pressure sensor, there are also a few options, either directly through a splitter, or make a hose and to it already to bolt on the splitter that attaches to the body. About the drain let me just say one thing, you need to make the shortest path possible.


Then the whole thing needs to be configured as the brain will not perceive a positive pressure. Will make a reservation that in my case used the wiring is обд1 and the brain of a P28, if you do not, you will have to do (a description of this process is available in section ...paste the link). About how to prepare for Nintendo this the brain and actually the process chipovka, also described somewhere on this website.\nFor detuning of the brain is the most reasonable and trusted option would be to use the program Crome. Be sure to turboproekt need to acquire a broadband lambda (SHLZ LC-1 or AEM). With the map sensor not yet clear how much the maximum positive pressure takes the native sensor. Acquire a minimum set of instruments display oil temperature, turbine pressure and oil pressure. Also get a boost controller, turbotimer, candles with correct potassium and the fuel pump with the capacity of 255 l/h Left injector, the volume must be calculated in a special program specifically for your project, there is a caveat, if the high-impedance injectors, you will have to use resistors. \nTransmission. On d-series are mainly used for two mechanical boxes – s40 s20 long and short. Fundamentally change from one to another does not make sense. Grip is better to use ceramic or carbon-Kevlar. Lock LSD in the box it is very desirable to install.\nRelease. For the turbo project the rule - the freer the exhaust the better! It is reasonable to use the exhaust from the pipe diameter 58-78 mm, without resonators, and in the end some Japanese sports muffler to suit every taste.\nAnd now the moment of truth, the engine we rocked, and how it all can transfer to the wheels? how to slow down? If you have these questions yourself so you have a little start to include technical thinking. This is usually setup box with LSD (not a LSD, and Limited-slip differential), lightweight aluminum flywheel, ceramic-metal clutch and of course a reinforced clutch basket.

the

Projects

Now there are two turbo project Honda Civic D14, both on the basis of D14Z1. Turbo D14 Sebastix, built on a stock block without replacing the pistons and satuna — was obtained 200лс. Turbo D14 cook-Hand has been modified to D15 and was obtained 290лс. Both take part in the tournaments circuit racing.

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Данная статья актуальна для автомобилей Honda выпуска 1992-2000 годов, таких как Civic EJ9, Civic EK3, CIVIC EK2, CIVIC EK4 (частично). Информация будет актуальна для владельцев Honda Integra в кузовах DB6, DC1, с моторами ZC, D15B, D16A.

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