НА САЙТЕ ВЕДУТСЯ РАБОТЫ. ВОЗМОЖНЫ СБОИ, НЕКОРРЕКТНОЕ ОТОБРАЖЕНИЕ.

Случайная статья узнай что то новое



the sound of a broken CV joint\Download the sound as crispy exterior of the pomegranate.

If you have at turns appeared buzz or rattle in the front, as if on disk, loud beat with a hammer then you know — it was the turn of replacement of the CV joint or the outer grenades, different name. In the General case is torn boot and dirt mixed with lubricant — creates an abrasive. Of course if the boot was discovered that there is a chance to save. Remove the joint, flush with diesel, fill with new grease, put on a new boot. But most often it is the replacement of the CV joint.
How critical knock the CV joint? The maximum load occurs only at critical turns, so try not to wring the maximum the wheel and step on the gas at top speed. It is usually said that while the crunch has not appeared when the car goes in a straight line then all is well. But you still need to be careful.
I drove with the wild knock about 1.5 months. Not a very good indicator of course, but I realized that the thing is reliable enough. The outcome can be two. Either wheel lose control-driven — will break the inner ring of the grenade. Either wheel may stall (which usually never happens). Therefore, to change the constant velocity joint is necessary, especially if you are young and you like to press on the accelerator pedal, especially on the roads in Russia.
The work is quite dirty.

\n\n\n
puller of the ball, a great thing with proper quality

puller of the ball, a great thing with proper quality

\nthe

Necessary details

the

    on New CV joint for HDK fit EJ9 D14 H0-35, you can take the ABS HO-35A50 crimethe

  • a New boot, for example RBI O17201UZ, it comes with clamps
  • the
  • Grease filling of the CV joint
  • the
  • Head 32 regular hexagon
  • the
  • Head 19
  • the
  • Head 17
  • the
  • a tap wrench or a torque wrench up to 200nm
  • the
  • puller ball
  • the
  • universal CV joint puller
  • the
  • Hammer
  • the
  • Cotter, 2.0X18 on the tip
  • the
  • Cotter, 3.0X20 on the lower ball
split Pin, locking slotted nut

the cotter Pin, locking slotted nut

\n\n\nthe

just In case

Cases come in all sorts, and with half the removed CV Joint you are not uedite.

the
    the
  • Chisel thin (1cm)
  • the
  • Hammer, heavy
  • the
  • Pliers
  • the
  • Bulgarian
CV joint puller, neat and bezboleznennyy method.

the CV joint puller, neat and bezboleznennyy method.

\n\nthe

How to replace the outer CV joint or outer grenade

first you need to loosen the hub nut. Convenient if you have access to the nut until the wheel removed and the car has not raised this on wheel shake stub hub. Loosen the hub nut and wheel nuts. While the car is raised remove for convenience, the opposite side of the wheel. Left wheel-the steering wheel to the left. The right wheel-the wheel to the right. I hope about the safety of the machine and the Jack is no need to explain.
If you posted the wheel remove the hub nut. Next go to the tie rod end. The nut of the tie rod and locks the pin. It is usually bent on one side and passes through the nut and the body \"screw\" tip. Knock out the cotter pin with pliers pull it out. Head 17 remove the nut. Further, the Puller of the ball, for example, or Jack (from the bottom) remove the tie rod.
You can now rotate the fist in any direction. Repeat with the lower ball and the head 19. When the ball will come up — to pull the CV joint out, then\nmove the fist to the side of the front and lock it there. As you can see, you now have full access to SRUS.

\n\n
Welt nut is on the lower ball and nakonechnik Reiki

Welt nut is on the lower ball and nakonechnik Reiki

\n\nthe

Removing grenades

First you need to remove the rubber boot. Mine was torn and I just made it wrong. If the clamps allow you to remove them, remove and put the boot to the side of the box (inside). If this is not possible then the blows of the chisel \"punch\" the yokes.
Now the fun part is removing the CV joint. The idea is that at the end of the drive there are grooves, which turns the inner part of the CV joint, and after bearing himself. But, at the end of the actuator has a groove in which the snap ring, and your job is to remove the inner part of the CV joint from the drive, through this ring.
Often knock with a hammer, but this way I dont like, as there is a chance to damage the drive itself, and the inner grenade. I certainly understand that everyone does, but I use a universal puller which just pushes the clip of the grenade. It works well, one part is mounted on the drive (clamped) and the other under the action of two screws pushing the inner ring.
But it so happens that the ring is stuck, and the universal puller died. In this case, you need maximum cool to send a grenade to see the internal clip. Then with a chisel or a hammer to smash the inside of the circle. After removing the outer part, when all the balls are in your hands, arm grinder, and very carefully sawed into 3 parts the MAG, and shoot down with a hammer.

With a torn boot I skated 1.5 months. The photo shows both the puller.

With the torn boot I skated 1.5 months. The photo shows both the puller.

\n\nthe

setting the pomegranates

but No matter how you removed the old grenade and an old boot. Dont forget that the lock ring should remain on the drive! Now after cleaning the drive from the old filler, install a new dust boot — the sharp part of the box. Dont forget about the little clamp. Fill the grenade with a new external lubricant, very dense and straight. Part of the hammer under the rubber band.
If boot with both clamps on the actuator and the retaining ring installed and a new CV joint filled — safely install it in place until you hear a click locking ring. Reassemble in reverse order. Dont forget the cotter pins. the Moment zatekstovye nuts 182. Torque nuts wheel Honda about 100-104-108. At the end of the CV joint there is a small groove. You need accurate zavaliat disk (chisel) so that the groove is \"closed\". Good luck and success.

\nthe

PS

In theory, the replacement of the CV joint will cost about 20$ so there is a thought to ponder, so as to change each day you will not work, though simple but dirty and sometimes nervous. Prices for strippers in the amount released for 40-50$. Although you can do a mounting and a Jack. Will advise to change both. If your car without ABS then you can put the CV joint with the ABS make any difference to you will not.
And by the way in complete HDK, and the filler and the clamps and boot.


Случайная статья узнай что то новое

Данная статья актуальна для автомобилей Honda выпуска 1992-2000 годов, таких как Civic EJ9, Civic EK3, CIVIC EK2, CIVIC EK4 (частично). Информация будет актуальна для владельцев Honda Integra в кузовах DB6, DC1, с моторами ZC, D15B, D16A.

Главная страница

Соц. Сети

Календарь событий

  • Автоэкзотика - 1 мая
  • Jap Days - 22 Июня
  • JAP CAR FEST - 19-21 июля

Клубные встречи

  • Москва
  • Санкт-Петербург
  • Минск
  • Уфа

Партнеры EJ9.Ru

EJ9 и EK3 — записки инженера о Honda Civic 1998. 2010 – 2019 . Вся информация приводится для ознакомления, автор не несет ответственности за вред полученный в результате применения материалов сайта, находясь на сайте вы подтверждаете своё согласие с этим. Сделано Хондоводом для Хондоводов. Автор: Илья Серб Все изображения имеют авторство Карта сайта Honda Civic, всем VTEC!

Rambler's Top100 Valid XHTML 1.0 Transitional